Heck yes—let’s build your own silver‑dollar deadlift setup at home with a regular barbell! 🛠️💪

You don’t need fancy attachments; the simplest, safest DIY is two sturdy “pulling blocks” that your plates sit on so the bar sits ~18 in (45.7 cm) off the floor, which is the standard silver‑dollar start height used in strongman. 

What you’re building (in a nutshell)

Two low platforms (one under each stack of plates). When your plates rest on these blocks, the bar height lands at ~18”. That recreates the event’s range of motion at home—simple, solid, and hype! 

Target block height (quick math):

Most full‑size plates are 450 mm diameter (17.72”), so the bar’s center is radius ≈ 8.86” above the block.

To hit an 18” start: block height ≈ 18” − 8.86” = ~9.14” (about 9⅛”).

👉 Measure your plates to be sure, then shim if needed for precision.

Option A (recommended): Wood pulling blocks (rugged + quiet)

Materials (for 2 blocks):

  • 2×8 lumber (actual 1.5” × 7.25”): two 8‑ft boards is plenty
  • ¾” plywood (one 4’×4’ panel is enough)
  • Thin rubber (e.g., 3/8” stall‑mat or doormat) for the tops
  • 2×4 offcuts for internal braces (optional but strong)
  • 2½” exterior/deck screws, wood glue
  • 1×2 strips (as “edge rails” so plates can’t roll)
  • Non‑slip pads for the bottoms (rubber scraps)

Dimensions (per block):

  • Footprint: 24” (L) × 16” (W)
  • Final height target: ~9⅛” (so the bar lands near 18”)

Cut list (per block):

  • 2×8 rails (long sides): 2 × 24”
  • 2×8 rails (short sides): 2 × 13” (to make ~16” overall width)
  • ¾” plywood bottom: 1 × 24” × 16”
  • ¾” plywood top: 1 × 24” × 16”
  • 2×4 braces inside: 2 × ~13” (fit between long rails)
  • 1×2 top “edge rails”: 2 × 24”, 2 × 16” (optional safety)

Height math for this build:

7.25” (2×8 on edge) + 0.75” (bottom ply) + 0.75” (top ply) + 0.375” (rubber) ≈ 9.125” → Bar ≈ 8.86” + 9.125” = 17.99”. That’s right on the money. Add a thin shim if your plates are slightly smaller/larger.

Assembly (fast & sturdy):

  1. Frame: Screw and glue the 2×8s into a rectangle (24” × ~16”).
  2. Brace: Add two 2×4 cross‑braces inside the frame (pre‑drill).
  3. Bottom: Screw the ¾” plywood to the underside.
  4. Top: Screw the ¾” plywood to the top; glue and screw the rubber sheet on.
  5. Edge rails (optional but smart): Screw 1×2 strips along the top perimeter to keep plates from rolling.
  6. Anti‑slide: Stick rubber pads underneath.

Place a block under each plate stack, load the bar, and you’re in business.

Option B (ultra‑simple): Mats & shims stack

Stack firm rubber stall mats, dense plywood, or timber offcuts to ~9⅛” under each plate. Top with rubber for grip. This is cheaper and faster, just make the footprint wide enough (16–24”) and check the height with a tape measure to the bar’s center.

Option C (if you have a rack): Pin‑or‑block pulls

Set your power‑rack safeties or spotter arms so the bar itself sits at 18”. This matches the event’s start height too and is very stable. (Competitions standardize to ~18”; whether the bar rests on pins or the plates sit on blocks, the key is the bar height.) 

Set‑up & use

  1. Measure: With the bar unloaded, confirm floor → bar center ≈ 18”. Shim as needed.
  2. Align: Place the two blocks parallel and square; center the bar so plates sit fully on top.
  3. Load smart: Because ROM is shorter, you’ll lift more—start lighter than you think to groove the pattern.
  4. Cues: Soft knees, brace hard, lats tight, drive hips through.
  5. Collars: Always use locking collars.

Safety first (seriously)

  • No cinder blocks (they’re brittle and can explode).
  • Use screws + glue, not nails; pre‑drill to prevent splitting.
  • Keep the top rubberized and add edge rails so plates can’t roll.
  • Clear the area; if a block shifts, stop, reset, and re‑measure before continuing.

Why this works

Silver‑dollar deadlift attachments and frames set the bar at ~18”—that’s the defining feature of the event. Your blocks precisely recreate that height with the equipment you already have. (Commercial attachments advertise exactly this 18” bar height and are used to standardize the event.) 

If you want, I can tailor the cut list to your exact plate diameter (some plates aren’t a perfect 450 mm) and the materials you can get locally—so you can build it once, build it right, and go smash PRs. Let’s go! 🔥🏋️‍♂️