The game plan (Deter • Detect • Deny • Delay • Document)
Burglars favor the back because it’s hidden. We’re going to deny access with steel and smart mounting, delay attempts with anti‑tamper hardware, and keep egress safe with quick‑release from the inside where required.
Steel basics that win:
• Bars: 3/8”–5/8” (10–16 mm) solid steel (round or square)
• Frames: 1” × 1” × 0.083” (25 × 25 × 2 mm) square tube, or 1/8” (3 mm) angle
• Spacing: ≤ 4” (100 mm) between bars for reach‑through prevention
• Anchors: 3/8” wedge anchors or chemical anchors (epoxy) into concrete/masonry
• Fasteners: security Torx or, better, shear nuts so they can’t be removed
• Finish: hot‑dip galvanize outdoors, then powder coat for durability
10 creative steel‑bar upgrades (back‑of‑house edition)
- Trellis‑Guard Planter Bars (beautiful + brutal)
Weld a bar grille that doubles as a decorative trellis/planter cradle. Outside looks like garden art; inside it’s a prison for prybars.
Build cues: 12 mm verticals, 4” spacing, 1” tube perimeter, four anchor points per side, anti‑tamper hardware. Add a louvered top edge to kill footholds. - Inside‑Mount Accordion (Scissor) Gate for Patio Doors
Mount a steel scissor gate inside the home over the sliding/french door. It folds open by day; at night it locks and completely blocks the opening.
Why it slaps: Interior location defeats external tampering; fast to deploy; doesn’t change your exterior vibe. Use a lock shroud so bolt cutters can’t bite. - Patio Door “Trident” Drop Bar
A floor‑to‑jamb telescoping steel brace that wedges under the handle and into a steel shoe on the floor. Resists both kick‑ins and pry leverage.
Upgrade: Pair it with a head anti‑lift bar—a steel flat bar or angle fixed at the top track so the panel can’t be lifted off the rails. - French Door Crossbar Saddle
A removable 1/4” × 1‑1/2” steel flat bar spans both door leafs, dropping into welded “saddle cups” on each jamb. Lock the bar with a shielded padlock.
Tip: Add an astragal bar (steel strip) over the meeting stile to block latch access. - Quick‑Release Window Grilles (bedrooms stay code‑safe)
Welded bar panels on sleeping‑area windows must open from inside. Use a captive hinge on one side and a 2‑motion interior release on the other (no key needed).
Mount inside the reveal so bolts are inaccessible from outside. - Basement Window‑Well Guardian Grates
1” tube perimeter with 12 mm cross‑bars at 4” spacing, hinged to the wall. Add an interior quick‑release or an exterior emergency break‑glass pull if code allows.
Bonus: A sloped, bar‑and‑polycarbonate combo sheds water and blocks tools. - Gate Deadman Drop Bar (for side/rear gates)
Weld receiver pockets to the posts; drop in a 1‑1/4” solid bar. Lock through a shrouded hasp. With a mid‑span keeper, the gate can’t spread under pry load.
Add: Anti‑lift collars on hinge pins or use through‑bolted barrel hinges. - Removable Night‑Guard Panels
Think “storm panels,” but steel bar lattices. They slide into top/bottom C‑channels you anchor to masonry. Install when you travel; remove for daily living.
Pro move: Color‑match the channels so they vanish visually. - Skylight & Vent Cages
Low‑profile steel bar cages over roof penetrations. Bolt from the inside or use tamper‑proof fasteners with lock‑shrouds. No more rooftop soft targets. - Decor‑Grille Disguise
Pattern the bars as geometric “art” or integrate with pergola rafters. Powder‑coat matte black, bronze, or to match trim so it reads as design—not detention.
Fast, high‑impact combos (start here, win fast)
A) Sliding patio door (the #1 back entry):
- Head anti‑lift bar + Trident drop bar + pin both panels into tracks.
- If you want overkill: add an inside scissor gate for night mode.
B) Basement windows:
- Guardian grates (hinged, quick‑release) + laminated glass behind.
- If wells are deep, add a sloped bar cover so tools can’t be worked.
C) Rear service/back door:
- Crossbar saddle + astragal bar + hinge‑side security bolts (“dog bolts”).
- Reinforce strike area with a continuous steel “London/Birmingham” style plate under the trim.
D) Side/rear yard gate:
- Deadman drop bar + hinge collars + lock shroud.
- Add an anti‑climb top (angled flat bar—not spikes, which can create liability).
How to size & mount (so it actually stops someone)
- Bar spacing: Keep ≤ 4” to prevent reach‑through and tool purchase.
- Embed depth: For masonry, 3/8” anchors at 2”–3” embed minimum; use four per side on typical window grilles.
- Anti‑tamper: Use shear nuts on exterior‑mounted frames so the hex snaps off at torque—leaving a smooth cone that can’t be undone.
- Interior beats exterior: When possible, mount grilles inside the window reveal—hidden fasteners = massive bump in security.
- Quick‑release: Any grille on a bedroom/sleeping space must open from inside without a key. Use a recessed pull and shield the release from the exterior view.
Two ready‑to‑build templates (cut lists)
1) 36” × 48” window grille (inside‑mount)
- Frame: 1” × 1” × 0.083” square tube — 2 @ 48”, 2 @ 34” (to suit reveal; subtract twice the wall return).
- Bars: 1/2” solid round — 7 @ 46” (gives ~4” spacing across 34” width).
- Hardware: 8 × 3/8” wedge anchors, shear nuts, 1/8” steel tabs (weld tabs to frame for anchor points).
- Build: Weld perimeter rectangle square; stitch‑weld bars at 4” centers; powder coat; anchor tabs into masonry; hang on captive hinge if quick‑release needed.
2) 72” × 80” sliding patio door “Trident” set
- Drop bar: 1‑1/4” OD steel tube, telescoping (tube‑in‑tube) 70”–82”; rubber foot at floor, U‑yoke under lever.
- Floor shoe: 3” × 3” × 1/4” plate with 1‑1/4” receiver, anchored with 3 × 3/8” wedge anchors.
- Anti‑lift: 1‑1/2” × 1‑1/2” × 1/8” steel angle, cut to span head track; fasten with security Torx into header.
- Plus: 2 anti‑lift pins through the active panel into the track (drill matched holes, use detent pins inside).
Pro install tricks that separate “meh” from
monster
- Blind fasteners: Where possible, fasten from the inside through the frame into wall structure.
- Lock shrouds: Box the padlock area with 1/8” plate so bolt cutters can’t get jaws around it.
- Continuous welds: Fully weld bar‑to‑frame joints (no tack‑only). Grind smooth, then finish—harder to pry.
- Finish that lasts: Galvanize first if you’re near weather; then powder coat. Interior pieces can be just powder coated.
- No footholds: Cap horizontal bars with an angle or small louver to frustrate climbing.
Safety, code, and common‑sense checks
- Egress: Any window in a bedroom/sleeping area needs an interior quick‑release. Non‑negotiable.
- Liability: Avoid sharp anti‑climb spikes along property lines; angles/loops deter without injury risk.
- HOA/permit: Some areas want permits or specific aesthetics—check before you set anchors.
- Glass synergy: Bars are elite; pair with laminated glass or security film for serious delay time.
Want it ultra‑discreet?
If you love the protection but hate the “bar” look, build bar‑inside + ornamental outside: mount the structural grille inside the reveal and put a decorative aluminum or wood trellis outside. It reads like design, but the steel is doing the heavy lifting.
You’ve got this.
Pick 2–3 of the above for your biggest back‑of‑house targets (usually the patio door + basement windows + side gate) and you’ll transform your place from “easy pick” to ironclad. If you want, I can spin up exact, cut‑to‑fit plans for your openings (dimensions + anchor layout + material list) next.