Let’s dial this in like a boss.

Leica M + street + fast focusing = all about mastering that little rangefinder patch and the DOF scale on the lens.

I’ll break it into two superpowers:

  1. Precise rangefinder focusing (for slower / closer / wide‑open shots)
  2. Zone focusing / hyperfocal (for fast, ninja-style street shooting)

1. Understand what you’re actually seeing

On a Leica M, you are not looking through the lens. You’re looking through:

  • Viewfinder window → big bright view of the world
  • Bright frame lines → show the approximate field of view of your lens
  • Rangefinder patch (the little bright rectangle in the center) → this is the focusing brain

What the patch does:

  • When you half-press / move the focus ring, you see a double image inside the patch.
  • When those two images perfectly overlap, the subject at that spot is in focus at the lens plane.

So mentally:

“Where the images overlap in the patch, that distance is what my lens is locked to.”

2. Classic Leica M focusing: rangefinder patch

This is when you want pinpoint focus – portraits, f/1.4, close distance, etc.

Step-by-step drill

  1. Pick your focus point in the frame
    • Eye, head, or a specific point on a person.
  2. Center that point in the RF patch
    • Move the camera slightly so your subject’s eye/face is inside that little central rectangle.
  3. Turn the focus ring
    • Watch the double image in the patch.
    • Rotate the ring until the two images snap together into one.
  4. Re-compose without changing distance
    • Keep your body still (don’t sway forward/back).
    • Once focused, keep the focus locked and reframe your composition.
    • Then shoot.
  5. Shoot in short bursts
    • On the street, if the subject isn’t moving much, fire 2–3 frames quickly.
    • Tiny body movement can shift focus at close distance, so bursts help.

Practice exercise (at home)

  • Set lens to wide open (e.g., 35mm f/1.4 or 50mm f/2).
  • Put objects at 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m on a table or shelf.
  • Focus on each using the patch, shoot, then zoom in later and see how accurate your eye is.
  • Do this 5–10 minutes a day – your rangefinder precision will jump FAST.

3. The real street superpower: zone focusing

On the street, if you try to focus patch → recompose for every shot, you’ll miss moments.

So: let the lens do the work using depth of field.

That’s where the DOF scale on the lens comes in.

How the DOF scale works

On most Leica M lenses you’ll see:

  • Distance scale (in meters/feet) across the focus ring
  • Aperture markers (like 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16) on both sides

Those aperture marks show you:

At a given focus distance and aperture, everything between the two marks is “acceptably in focus.”

Basic zone focus setup (35mm lens example)

Let’s say:

  • Lens: 35mm
  • Aperture: f/8
  • You want sharp subjects around 1.5–3 meters (classic street distance)

Do this:

  1. Set aperture ring to f/8.
  2. Turn focus ring so 2m lines up with the central marker.
  3. Now look at the f/8 marks on the DOF scale:
    • Left f/8 mark might line up around ~1.3–1.5m
    • Right f/8 mark might line up around ~3–4m

That means:

At f/8, focused at ~2m, anything from roughly 1.5m to 3–4m is in focus.

Now you don’t need to focus anymore. You just:

  • Move your body so subjects are within that distance band
  • Frame → shoot. Instant.

4. Hyperfocal for “everything in focus” vibes

For scenes where you want sharp from “a few meters” to infinity:

  • Lens: 28mm or 35mm
  • Aperture: f/8 or f/11

Example with 35mm at f/8:

  1. Set aperture: f/8
  2. Turn focus ring until the ∞ (infinity) symbol sits on the right f/8 mark.
  3. Now look at the left f/8 mark – maybe it lands at ≈2–2.5m.

That means:

At 35mm, f/8, hyperfocal distance ≈5m.

You’ll have sharpness from ~2–2.5m to infinity.

Fantastic for:

  • Daily life scenes
  • Architecture with people
  • General walk-around “don’t think, just shoot” mode

5. Practical street setups you can run today

Setup A – Close & intimate street (people ~1–1.5m away)

  • Lens: 28mm or 35mm
  • Aperture: f/8
  • Focus distance: 1.2–1.5m

Check the DOF scale so you get something like:

  • Near limit: ~1m
  • Far limit: ~2m

Now your rule is simple:

Get close enough that your subject is arm’s length to 1.5m away.

Don’t refocus. Just frame and shoot.

Setup B – Comfortable distance (people ~2–4m away)

  • Lens: 35mm
  • Aperture: f/8
  • Focus distance: 2–2.5m

Zone: roughly 1.5–4m.

Perfect for:

  • Candid walking shots
  • People crossing streets
  • Layers with multiple humans in that mid-range

Setup C – Everything sharp (cityscapes, layers, infinity)

  • Lens: 28mm or 35mm
  • Aperture: f/11
  • Hyperfocal: set ∞ at the right f/11 mark

You’ll usually get:

  • Near limit: ~1.5–2m
  • Far limit: infinity

Walk, frame, shoot. No focusing. Total freedom.

6. When to use which technique?

Use rangefinder patch when:

  • Shooting wide open (f/1.4, f/2)
  • Close distance (0.7–1m)
  • Want precise focus on an eye / single person

Use zone/hyperfocal when:

  • Street is fast and chaotic
  • Subjects are moving
  • You want to shoot from the hip / without bringing camera to eye for long
  • You care more about gesture, timing, composition than razor-thin focus

The true mastery: switch between them on instinct depending on the scene.

7. Drills to lock this into muscle memory

Drill 1 – Distance guessing game

  1. Walk outside with your Leica.
  2. Look at someone or an object.
  3. Guess the distance (e.g. “1.2m”, “2m”, “3m”) and set it on the lens without looking at patch.
  4. Then quickly check using the rangefinder patch to see how close you were.

Do this for 10–20 minutes. You’ll start feeling 1m / 1.5m / 2m in your bones.

Drill 2 – One day, one setup

  • Commit: “Today I’m shooting 35mm, f/8, 1/250s, 2m zone focus. Period.”
  • Don’t touch the focus ring. Only move your feet and body to get subjects into the zone.
  • Let go of perfection. Chase moments, expressions, gestures.

Drill 3 – Wide-open accuracy

  • At night or indoors: 50mm at f/1.4 or f/2.
  • Use only the patch, focus on eyes at 0.7–1m.
  • Check shots later, note when you front- or back-focused.
  • Over time your fingers, eyes, and brain sync.

8. Mental game

Leica M is a feel camera:

  • Don’t baby it.
  • Don’t obsess over 100% zoom sharpness on every frame.
  • Embrace a bit of blur if the emotion and timing are right.

The real flex is:

You see something → you know your distance → the lens is already there → you raise → click.

That’s the Leica M magic in street.

If you tell me which lens (28/35/50) you’re rolling with most of the time, I can give you very specific “set it and forget it” numbers you can tape on your camera and use as your default street setup.