LAR1 Zoning in Los Angeles: Overview for Single-Family Residential Homes

Permitted Uses in LAR1 Zone

• One-Family Dwellings: The LAR1 (Residential, One-Family) zone is primarily for single-family homes. One single-family residence is allowed per lot by right . Multi-family buildings (apartments or condos) are not permitted under R1 zoning without a zone change .
• Accessory Uses and Structures: Typical accessory structures and uses are allowed to support the residence. This includes garages, carports, storage sheds, recreation rooms, and accessory living quarters (such as guest or servant’s quarters) on larger lots . (Note: Accessory living quarters/guest houses are only allowed if the lot is at least 10,000 sq ft .) Home occupations (home-based businesses) are permitted so long as they meet city standards (e.g. no exterior evidence of business) . Small signs/nameplates are allowed for identification of the residence as per code . Backyard beekeeping is also permitted as an accessory use, subject to performance standards (e.g. hive distance from property lines) .
• Public and Recreational Uses: Parks, playgrounds, or community centers operated by a government agency are allowed in R1 zones . These are typically publicly owned facilities serving the neighborhood.
• Limited Two-Family Use (Rare): R1 is a single-family zone, but there is a very narrow exception that allows a two-family dwelling (duplex) if the R1 lot directly adjoins a commercial or industrial zoned lot. In that case, a duplex can be built within 65 feet of the commercial/industrial boundary, provided the lot has at least 5,000 sq ft per dwelling unit (so 10,000 sq ft for a duplex)  . This is an uncommon scenario used as a buffer near more intense zones.
• Conditional Uses: Certain uses may be allowed with a City Planning approval (a Conditional Use Permit). For example, institutions like churches, schools or daycare facilities could be approved in R1 with a public hearing and CUP under Section 12.24 of the code . Without such approval, these are not permitted outright.
• Accessory Dwelling Units: State law and Los Angeles’s ADU ordinance now allow Accessory Dwelling Units (ADUs) and Junior ADUs on R1 lots as accessory uses (discussed in detail below). ADUs are considered accessory to the main single-family home and thus are permitted in residential zones like R1 by-right, subject to development standards .

Development Standards: Building Height, Yards, and Floor Area

LAR1 zoning not only limits land use to single-family homes, but also imposes rules on building size and placement on the lot. Key development standards include:

• Building Height: In a typical non-hillside, non-coastal R1 area, the maximum building height is 33 feet. However, if the roof of the uppermost story is flat or has a slope of less than 25%, the height is capped at 28 feet . (This effectively encourages pitched roofs – a pitched roof house can go up to 33 ft, whereas a flat-roofed modern house is held to 28 ft max.) These heights generally accommodate two-story homes. There is no explicit story limit in R1 (story count is “unlimited” by the base zone), but the height in feet governs how many stories can fit .
  
  • Hillside/Coastal Areas: If an R1 property is in a designated Hillside Area or Coastal Zone, different height rules apply. In Hillside R1 areas, height is governed by the Hillside Ordinance (often a lower height envelope that depends on slope) . In the Coastal Zone, R1 lots may be allowed up to 45 ft height if the area’s Height District permits (many coastal neighborhoods have specific plan limits) . Always check for overlay regulations, as Specific Plans or Historic Preservation Overlay Zones (HPOZs) may impose stricter height limits that supersede the base zoning .
• Front Yard Setback: A front yard is required, creating a buffer from the street. In R1, the front yard must be at least 20% of the lot depth, up to a maximum of 20 feet . In practice, for a standard lot of 100 feet depth, this means a 20 ft front setback. If the lot is deeper (say 150 ft), you still need only 20 ft (since 20% would be 30 ft, but the code caps the required front yard at 20 ft) . There is also a “prevailing setback” rule: if enough neighboring homes on the block have a deeper or shallower setback within a 10-foot range, an average of those may set a different required front yard to maintain neighborhood character . However, no R1 front yard ever has to be more than 40 ft, regardless of averaging rules .
• Side Yard Setbacks:  R1 homes must be set in from the side property lines. The minimum side yard is 5 feet on each side for a one- or two-story house . For narrow lots under 50 ft in width, the side setback may be reduced to 10% of lot width (but never less than 3 ft) . For example, a 40-ft wide lot could have 4 ft side yards (10%), but a very narrow 30-ft lot would still need 3 ft minimum. If a building has a third story (which is rare in R1 due to height limits), an extra 1 foot of side setback is required for that third story .
  
  • Side Wall Articulation: To avoid excessively tall, unbroken walls along side yards, Los Angeles requires an offset or plane break for large side walls. Any side wall taller than 14 ft with an uninterrupted length over 45 ft must include a step-back or recess – specifically a portion of the wall must step in at least 5 ft for a length of at least 10 ft to break up the massing . This prevents the effect of looming, sheer walls next to neighbors . Additionally, if a rooftop deck is added on top of a house, it must be set back at least 3 ft from the minimum side yard line for privacy of neighbors .
• Rear Yard Setback: A rear yard (back yard) of at least 15 feet is required in R1 . This provides open space at the rear of the property. Like other yards, this is a minimum; a house can always be set back further. (On shallow lots, note that the front yard percentage rule stops at 20 ft, so the rear yard still needs 15 ft – you can’t reduce the rear to compensate.)
• Lot Size and Width: Every R1-zoned lot for a new single-family dwelling must have a minimum lot area of 5,000 sq. ft. and a minimum width of 50 feet . This is the standard size requirement in R1 zones. Only one main dwelling is allowed per 5,000 sq ft lot (i.e. effectively a density of one unit per 5,000 sq.ft.). This also means you generally cannot subdivide an existing R1 lot into pieces smaller than 5,000 sq ft. Exceptions: Parcels that were legally created on a recorded tract or parcel map in the past can be maintained even if they are substandard in size or width – they are “grandfathered” lots . For example, if a neighborhood has older lots of 4,500 sq ft created decades ago, those lots are buildable for one home, but you couldn’t further split them today under current zoning. Any newly created R1 lots must meet the 5,000 sq ft/50 ft width minimums.
• Floor Area Ratio (FAR)/Residential Floor Area: Los Angeles limits the size (bulk) of new houses in R1 through a Residential Floor Area (RFA) limitation (part of the Baseline Mansionization Ordinance). On a typical flat lot, the total floor area of all structures is limited to 45% of the lot area . In other words, a 5,000 sq ft lot can have up to 2,250 sq ft of house/garage floor area. This is a 0.45 FAR cap, aimed at preventing oversized “mansion” houses on small lots . (Certain architectural features like covered porches may be exempt or counted partially, and bonuses were formerly offered for green buildings – though many exemptions were tightened in 2017’s code update .)
  
  • R1 Variation Zones: In response to concerns about mansionization, the City created R1 “Variation” zones (such as R1V1, R1V2, R1F, R1R, etc.) for specific neighborhoods. These variation zones have modified FAR and height standards. For example, in some R1V zones the allowable FAR scales with lot size (larger lots get a slightly smaller FAR) and heights can be lower (e.g. 28 or 30 ft max)  . Some variation zones cap lot coverage (around 40–50%) in addition to FAR  . In R1F (Front-Mass) or R1R (Rear-Mass) variations, the code might allow a taller front portion or require a lower rear portion of the house to better match prevailing neighborhood patterns  . Most properties labeled simply “R1” will follow the base 0.45 FAR and 33’/28’ height rules above, but if your zone is something like “R1-1V2” or “R1-1F3”, there are specialized envelope rules (found in LAMC §12.08 C.5 and related tables  ). Always verify the exact zoning designation (e.g. via ZIMAS) to see if a variation applies.
• Encroachment Plane: All R1 zones (including variations) are subject to an “encroachment plane” requirement. This means that above a certain height, the building must fit within an imaginary 45-degree sloping plane starting at a specified height at the property lines. In standard R1 (non-variation), the encroachment plane begins 20 feet above the front and side yard setback lines , angling inward over the lot. In practical terms, after 20’ of height, upper floors/roof must step back further, preventing a sheer vertical facade at the setbacks . This limits the massing of upper stories. (Variation zones modify the height at which this plane starts – e.g. some start at 22’ or as low as 14’ – depending on neighborhood context  .) The encroachment plane angle is generally 45° . Designers must keep upper portions of the house within this angled envelope.
• Open Space: The yard requirements inherently ensure some open space on the lot (front, sides, rear). There is no separate open-space-per-lot requirement beyond the setbacks in R1 (unlike multi-family zones which require common open space). However, any paved areas, patios, pools, etc. must still observe the yard setbacks (with some exceptions for encroachments like eaves, etc., per LAMC 12.22 C).
• Parking Requirements: Each single-family home in R1 must have off-street parking for at least two cars. The Los Angeles Municipal Code requires two automobile parking spaces on the same lot as each one-family dwelling . For new construction, these are typically provided as two covered spaces in a garage or carport (the vast majority of homes have an attached or detached two-car garage). In standard R1 zones, the code effectively expects covered parking unless otherwise allowed (the code language in 12.21.A.4 says two spaces are required, and other sections imply they should be covered in many cases) . There are some exceptions or modern reductions: for example, in designated “Parking Reduction” districts or under the state Density Bonus law, parking requirements might be lowered – but those generally apply to multifamily projects, not single-family homes.
  
  • Note that parking space size and location have standards too – e.g. you can’t count a tandem space as two independent spaces for a single-family, and parking in the front yard setback is restricted (parking must typically be in a driveway or garage, not just on lawn). For any significant remodel or addition that adds bedrooms, LADBS will check that the property complies with the 2-space requirement (grandfathered older homes with one-car garages usually have to add a second space if expanding).

Lot Size, Subdivision, and Unit Count Limitations

• Minimum Lot Area & Subdivision: As noted, R1 lots are minimum 5,000 sq.ft. If an owner of a large R1 parcel wants to subdivide, each resulting new lot must also meet the 5,000 sq.ft. area (and 50 ft width) requirement. For example, a 12,000 sq.ft. R1 parcel could theoretically be split into two conforming lots (6,000 and 6,000 sq.ft., both over 5,000). But a 8,000 sq.ft. lot could not be split into two lots, since each would be only 4,000 sq.ft., which is below the minimum – the subdivision would not be approved under the zoning code . The same goes for lot width: splitting a 90-ft wide lot into two 45-ft wide lots would violate the 50 ft minimum, so that’s not allowed. The City’s Parcel Map or Tract Map approval process would enforce these minimums. (There are extremely limited exceptions, like historic “small lot subdivisions” which generally do not apply to R1 zones, or specific plan carve-outs. But in general, you cannot create new substandard R1 lots.)
• One Home per Lot: R1 zoning limits density to one primary dwelling unit per lot (the zone’s own name “One-Family Zone” implies this)  . Aside from the special corner-case of a duplex next to commercial (mentioned above), you cannot build two separate main houses on one R1 lot. Even if the lot is huge, the base zoning doesn’t allow multiple “principal” dwellings on a single lot – you’d have to subdivide or rezone to R2 or higher to do that. Accessory Dwelling Units are not considered “principal” dwellings and are allowed in addition to the one main house (see next section), but they have size and usage restrictions.
• State Law SB 9 (Two Units and Lot Splits): Importantly, as of 2022, California’s SB 9 law provides an override of single-family zoning in certain cases. SB 9 allows property owners to do two things in single-family zones like R1, notwithstanding local zoning: (1) Build a Two-Unit Development (TUD) – essentially allowing two homes on one R1 lot (they can be two detached houses, or a duplex) – and/or (2) perform an Urban Lot Split (ULS) – split one single-family lot into two lots as small as 40% of the original (minimum around 1,200 sq.ft. for each)  . A property owner could even do both (split a lot into two and put two units on each), resulting in up to four units where formerly one was allowed. These SB 9 projects are subject to a list of eligibility criteria and objective standards (for example, the property can’t be in certain sensitive areas, the owner must sign an affidavit to live on site for at least 3 years for lot splits, each new unit must be at least 800 sq.ft., etc.) . SB 9 developments are ministerial (no hearing) if they meet the rules, meaning the City must approve them even if R1 zoning would normally prohibit it . In the City of LA, an SB 9 two-unit project is handled through LADBS plan check, and an SB 9 lot split is handled through a City Planning administrative process, per the City’s implementation guidelines . Bottom line: Under pure LAR1 zoning, you get one house per lot – but SB 9 now offers a path to more units for eligible properties. If you intend to pursue this, consult the latest SB 9 implementation memo and zoning checklist for specifics.
• Unit Size/Room Count: The R1 zone itself doesn’t regulate how large a single-family house can be in terms of number of bedrooms or rooms – the limitation is indirectly by the total floor area (FAR) and height/yard limits discussed above. So you could have a 2,000 sq.ft. house that’s 5 bedrooms or that’s 3 bedrooms, it’s up to the design. What’s not allowed is to try to treat one house as multiple units (e.g. duplex) without approvals – the code has provisions to prevent an oversized “single family” that is really being used as multi-unit (such as a rule that if you design a house with multiple separate entry quarters and extra kitchens that could easily be split, they may count it as multiple units for enforcement purposes) .

Accessory Dwelling Units (ADUs) and Junior ADUs in R1

Under current state law and city ordinance, Accessory Dwelling Units are allowed on R1 properties, greatly expanding the potential use of single-family lots. Key points about ADUs and JADUs in LAR1:

• ADU Basics: An Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU) is a secondary housing unit with its own kitchen, bath, and entrance, located on the same lot as a single-family home  . ADUs can be detached (a separate structure, like a backyard cottage or converted garage) or attached to/within the main house (like a downstairs or upstairs unit that is part of the main structure). ADUs are permitted by-right in R1 zones thanks to California Government Code 65852.2 – the City cannot prohibit them, and only can impose objective standards. Los Angeles adopted a local ADU ordinance (Ord. 186,481) in line with state law, now codified in LAMC §12.22 A.33 .
• Number of Units Allowed: On a single-family zoned lot, you may have one ADU and one Junior ADU in addition to the main house . In other words, an R1 property could contain up to three units: the primary house, one ADU, and one JADU. A Junior Accessory Dwelling Unit (JADU) is essentially a very small studio unit (max 500 sq ft) created by converting part of the existing single-family home . For example, a homeowner might convert an attached garage or a couple of existing bedrooms into a JADU, while also building a detached ADU in the backyard.
• ADU Development Standards: Los Angeles applies the statewide standard ADU rules. Some key development standards specific to ADUs on R1 lots are:
  
  • Lot Size: No minimum lot size is required for ADUs. Even small R1 lots can have an ADU, as long as the unit can fit with required setbacks etc. (The city explicitly does not impose a lot-size cutoff for ADUs .)
  • Setbacks: ADUs must generally be 4 feet from side and rear property lines at a minimum . (This is much less than the 5 ft side/15 ft rear normally required for the main house, a concession made by state law to facilitate ADUs.) Front yard setbacks still apply – an ADU usually cannot be located in front of the primary house in the front yard area . If you convert an existing garage or portion of the house, you can keep the same footprint even if it has a non-conforming setback (no setback required for converting existing structures) – but new construction ADUs must abide by the 4 ft rule for the sides/rear.
  • Maximum Size: For detached ADUs, Los Angeles allows up to 1,200 sq ft of floor area . This is the upper cap for a standalone ADU, regardless of lot size or main house size. For attached ADUs (built as an addition or within the existing house), the ADU’s size is limited to 50% of the floor area of the existing primary residence (if created as an addition) up to a max of 1,200 sq ft . For example, if you have a 2,000 sq ft house, an attached ADU built onto it could be up to 1,000 sq ft (50%). If you have a 3,000 sq ft house, 50% would be 1,500, but the cap of 1,200 sq ft kicks in, so 1,200 sq ft is the limit. However, state law minimums override these: the city must allow at least an 800 sq ft ADU even if 50% of a small house would be less. In fact, the law guarantees an attached or detached ADU of up to 850 sq ft for a studio/1-bedroom or 1,000 sq ft for a 2+ bedroom unit, regardless of the 50% rule. So practically, any R1 lot can have an ADU of at least ~800–1,000 sq ft even if the house is very small. JADUs by definition are max 500 sq ft and must be carved out of the existing house (no new footprint except maybe a very small expansion for an entry or bath) .
  • Height and Stories: A detached ADU in Los Angeles may be built up to two stories and is often limited to around 16 feet in height (the default height per state law for ministerial approval). Recent state updates allow heights up to 18 feet in some cases (for example, if matching a two-story primary dwelling, or within ½ mile of a transit stop, per SB 897). Los Angeles ordinance explicitly says a detached ADU structure shall not be greater than two stories high. If building above a garage or building a two-story backyard unit, the 4-ft rear/side setbacks still apply.
  • Parking for ADUs: Parking requirements for ADUs are very relaxed. No additional parking space is required for an ADU if the property is located within one-half mile walking distance of public transit or if the ADU is part of (or replacing) an existing structure (like a garage conversion) . Given Los Angeles’ extensive transit lines, many properties qualify for the no-parking-needed rule. Even if not near transit, the City can require at most one parking space for an ADU. And if you convert a garage to an ADU, the City cannot require you to replace the lost covered parking for the main house  (no replacement parking needed for demolition/conversion of a garage into an ADU). In short, lack of parking on the lot will usually not stop an ADU from being approved.
  • Other Regulations: ADUs must meet building code safety standards (plumbing, electrical, etc.) just like any new construction. Fire sprinklers are not required in an ADU if the main house doesn’t have them . New detached ADUs do trigger the state solar panel requirement (all new residential construction in CA requires solar panels, so a new standalone ADU needs solar panels on its roof or the property) . Also, either the ADU or the main house can be rented out, but owner-occupancy of the property is not mandated for ADUs in Los Angeles until at least 2025 per state law (JADUs, however, do require the owner live on site in one of the units).
• Approval Process: Building an ADU on an R1 lot is a ministerial process, meaning if you meet all the criteria, you don’t need a public hearing or discretionary approval. You will need to submit plans and obtain permits, but the review is “over-the-counter” checklist style. Los Angeles requires a small Planning review sign-off (to check zoning compliance with the ADU ordinance) and then a normal building permit process through LADBS . In summary: you prepare ADU architectural plans, submit to the Department of City Planning for an ADU plan check (often done concurrently at the DSC counter with Building & Safety), then obtain building permits from LADBS just as you would for a home addition . After construction, the ADU will receive a Certificate of Occupancy upon passing final inspections .
• Impact on R1 zoning: An ADU or JADU does not change the zoning of the property – it’s still considered a single-family zoned lot, just with allowed accessory units. The presence of an ADU also does not allow you to then subdivide the lot or treat it like a duplex for resale (in fact, state law prohibits selling the ADU separate from the main home, except in special cases like certain non-profit arrangements). And importantly, ADU square footage is somewhat exempt from certain calculations: the City cannot enforce residential floor area (RFA/FAR) limits or open space minimums in a way that precludes an 800 sq ft ADU – you are guaranteed that much even if it means exceeding the usual FAR cap . (If your ADU is larger, the portion beyond 800 sq ft might count towards FAR, but the first 800 must be allowed by-right.) In R1 zones that have an RFA cap of 0.45, this means homeowners can potentially exceed that cap slightly with an ADU. Always check the latest ADU memos for how things like basement ADUs or very large ADUs are treated relative to RFA and Hillside calculations, as these rules continue to be refined.
• Junior ADU specifics: A JADU is essentially a small studio created within the footprint of the house (often by converting a bedroom). It must be no more than 500 sq ft . A JADU must be fully contained within the existing house (or within an addition to the house) – typically it has a separate exterior entrance and a small efficiency kitchen. JADUs can share a bathroom with the main house or have their own bath . By state law, owner occupancy is required for JADUs – meaning the property owner must live in either the main dwelling or the JADU (this is to prevent absentee landlords carving a house into two tiny rentals; ADUs do not currently have this requirement, but JADUs do). Only one JADU is allowed per lot, and if you build a JADU you must still have only one main house (you cannot, for example, do a duplex plus a JADU in each – JADUs are only in single-family scenarios). Los Angeles treats JADUs similar to attached ADUs in processing – they are ministerial and typically reviewed with a simple building permit since they’re internal conversions.

Other Restrictions and Neighborhood-Specific Limitations

• Overlay Zones and Special Districts: Many R1-zoned neighborhoods are subject to additional regulations from overlay zones. For example, a property might be in a Historic Preservation Overlay Zone (HPOZ), which would require design review by a preservation board for exterior changes (to ensure the ADU or new construction is compatible with historic character). Or it might be in a Specific Plan area with its own design guidelines, or a Baseline Hillside Ordinance area with grading limits, or an Urban Agriculture Incentive Zone, etc. These supplemental use districts or overlays add another layer of rules on top of R1 zoning  . Always confirm if your lot has any such overlays (ZIMAS is a useful tool for this). Where an overlay’s standards conflict with base zoning, typically the stricter or more specific standard applies. For instance, an HPOZ may impose a lower height limit or require a larger front yard than base R1 – in that case, the HPOZ rule would govern for that area.
• Hillside Regulations: If your R1 lot is in a designated Hillside Area (check the zoning map – hillsides have an “H” zoning suffix or are within specific hillside ordinance boundaries), additional restrictions apply beyond the basic R1 rules. The Baseline Hillside Ordinance (BHO, LAMC 12.21 C.10) sets forth things like hillside-specific FAR limits (which can be lower than 0.45 and depend on the slope band of the lot), maximum grading quantities, required uphill/downhill setbacks for fire access, height limitations based on slope (often 18-25 ft tall limit measured from grade to roof, etc.), story limits in steep areas, and so on. Also, many hillside areas are in a Hillside Construction Regulation (HCR) Supplemental Use District or require a separate hillside approval (often called a “Hillside Zoning Administrator Determination”) for large homes exceeding 17,500 sq ft or for importing/exporting large amounts of soil. If building in the hills, one must also consider hauling route permits for earthwork, the need for soils/geotechnical reports, and tighter rules on construction hours and truck staging  . These are all additive to the R1 requirements – for example, a hillside R1 lot still needs 5,000 sq.ft. area unless the zone is RE20 or something larger, and still only one home (plus ADU), but the buildable envelope is further constrained by the hillside rules. Always consult LAMC 12.21 C.10 and any HCR overlay info if your project is on an R1 hillside lot.
• Adjacent Uses and Variances: R1 zoning is strictly residential. Running any kind of commercial business (like a retail shop or restaurant) out of an R1 property is not allowed. Even community or institutional uses (like a church or school) require a conditional use permit as noted earlier. If someone wanted to use an R1 property for a non-permitted use, they’d have to seek a zone variance or zone change – which the City grants only in exceptional cases. Zone variances in R1 might be seen for things like slightly substandard lot size/width (to allow construction on a 4,900 sq.ft. lot, for instance), or to request relief from a setback or height due to unique site conditions. But by law, a variance requires showing an undue hardship from strict zoning compliance, and they are not routinely given. Homeowners should expect that standard R1 rules will apply and not count on any variances.
• Design and Aesthetics: While R1 does not dictate architectural style, some neighborhoods have adopted “Residential Floor Area Districts” or specific plan design reviews to curb mansionization. Absent those, the City does not impose subjective design criteria for new single-family homes – as long as you stay within the height, FAR, and setback limits, you can choose your style/materials. However, any second-story addition or new build will undergo a plan check for Building Code and possibly grading, etc., but not an aesthetic review (again, unless in HPOZ or specific plan with design rules).
• Environmental Constraints: In very rare instances, an R1 lot might be zoned R1 but have an overlay like a “Q” Qualified condition or a Specific Plan that, for example, limits the number of homes or imposes open space conservation (e.g., equinekeeping “K” districts in some Valley R1 zones allow horse-keeping with larger lots). Additionally, if a property is in a flood zone, high fire severity zone, etc., there can be extra building requirements (sprinklers, construction materials, brush clearance rules) but those are building/safety regulations, not zoning limitations per se.
• Utilities and Easements: R1 zoning doesn’t directly address this, but practical development might be limited by utility easements (for example, a lot with a utility easement running through it might effectively have a reduced buildable area, since you typically can’t build structures on an easement). Always check the title report or survey for any easements or covenants. These aren’t zoning restrictions but can act like them (you might have a 15 ft utility easement at the back – you have a 15 ft rear yard by zoning anyway, so it might coincide, but if not, you can’t use that easement area for a building even if zoning would allow it).
• Affordable Housing/SB 9 tie-ins: A note on recent laws: SB 9 (discussed above) and state ADU laws are part of California’s effort to increase housing. Los Angeles also has a provision allowing “Movable Tiny Houses” as ADUs – essentially tiny homes on wheels that meet certain state standards, which are counted as ADUs by ordinance  . These are an interesting flexible option for R1 properties. Additionally, the City has a Permanent Supportive Housing (PSH) ordinance and Accessibly Accessible Housing (AAH) ordinance that in some cases override zoning to allow housing for homeless or disabled, even in R1, but those are specialized, case-by-case and usually involve City sponsorship. For a typical homeowner, those aren’t applicable.

Permits and Approvals for Construction or Remodels

Virtually any significant work on an R1 property will require permits from the City. Here’s an overview of the process and what approvals are needed:

• Building Permits: A permit from the Los Angeles Department of Building and Safety (LADBS) is required for any private property construction, alteration, addition, or significant repair in the City . This includes building a new house, adding a room, remodeling a kitchen or bathroom (if plumbing/electrical is moved), building an ADU, or even demolishing structures. Only very minor cosmetic work (painting, flooring, cabinetry, etc.) doesn’t need a permit. Generally, if you are altering the structure (walls, windows, roof), moving plumbing/electrical lines, or adding square footage, you’ll need to obtain a permit.
• Plan Check: Before a building permit is issued, you must submit construction plans to LADBS for Plan Check (also called plan review) . For a new single-family home, this means architectural and structural plans (and often grading/drainage plans) prepared by a licensed professional, showing compliance with all codes. LADBS plan checkers review the plans for Building Code compliance (structural safety, fire/life safety, energy code, etc.) and Zoning Code compliance (setbacks, height, etc.). For simpler projects (like a small remodel), the City offers “express” or “counter” plan check options where reviews can be faster . But for a brand-new house or major addition, a full plan check is standard. The plans must be approved by all relevant departments (building, electrical, mechanical, plumbing, sometimes fire, etc.) before you can pull the permit to begin work .
• Planning Approval: While R1 projects are mostly “by-right” (no planning entitlements needed if you follow the zoning rules), the Department of City Planning is still involved at the plan-check stage. They will verify the project complies with zoning and any overlays. This is often handled through a “zoning clearance” sign-off on the plans. If your project doesn’t comply (say you propose a smaller setback than allowed, or a taller building), you would have to seek a discretionary approval from Planning (like an adjustment, variance, or other entitlement) before you can get your building permit. Common planning entitlements in R1 might be:
  
  • Zoning Administrator’s Adjustment: to request up to a 20% deviation in a yard or height. For example, a 1-foot encroachment into a 5-ft side yard (i.e. a 4-ft setback) could be requested via an Adjustment. This requires notifying neighbors and an approval by a Zoning Administrator, with findings that there’s a practical difficulty, etc.
  • Variance: for bigger deviations (more than 20% or for something not ordinarily allowed, like an over-height fence, or second dwelling, etc.). Variances are harder to get and require strict findings.
  • Coastal Development Permit: if in the Coastal Zone (specific coastal areas of LA), new construction or major remodel may require a Coastal Development Permit from City Planning to ensure consistency with the California Coastal Act, even if zoning-wise it’s allowed. This is a whole additional process with coastal commission oversight if appeals happen.
  • HPOZ Certificate of Appropriateness: if in a Historic zone, the project might need approval from the HPOZ Board that the design is appropriate for the historic character (for example, you can’t tear down a contributing 1920s house without approval, or even an addition’s design may need to use similar materials).
  • Specific Plan Approval: some specific plan areas require plan approval or project permits for any new construction – a planning review to ensure the specific plan’s design guidelines are met.
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  If your R1 project triggers any of these, you must obtain the entitlement first. Many single-family projects do not need a discretionary planning approval – they just go through plan check. But it’s important to verify early. The City provides a “Project Planning Referral” form or checklist in plan check that flags if any of these special approvals are required.
• Construction Inspections and CofO: Once you have your permits and begin construction, LADBS inspectors will visit at scheduled stages (foundation, framing, electrical, plumbing, etc.). After passing all final inspections, the City will issue a Certificate of Occupancy (C of O) for a new house or ADU, which legally certifies the building is approved for use as a dwelling. (Small remodels or additions simply sign off final inspection without a new C of O, since the original house already had one.)
• Remodels vs. Repairs: For interior remodels of an existing house: if you’re only doing non-structural, cosmetic work (painting walls, replacing fixtures in the same location, etc.), you may not need a permit. But the line is fine – for instance, replacing kitchen cabinets doesn’t need a permit, but if you add new electrical circuits for under-cabinet lighting, that does need an electrical permit. If in doubt, check LADBS’s guidelines or ask. Generally, any change to load-bearing structures, any new openings in walls, any changes to the footprint or roofline, and any major system upgrade (plumbing, electrical, HVAC) will require permits and possibly plans. Even window replacements require a permit to ensure egress size, safety glazing, etc., unless it’s same-size swap in a single-family (the city has an express permit for same-size window replacements). Always better to get permits – unpermitted work can cause problems when selling the house or if discovered by an inspector (you might have to expose walls to show proper work, etc.).
• Demolition: Demolishing an entire house in R1 also requires a permit, and you must notify utility companies, rodent clearance, etc. If the structure is older than 45 years, a demolition requires a historic review clearance from the Office of Historic Resources to ensure it’s not inadvertently tearing down a historic resource without consideration. Also, some neighborhoods have an Interim Control Ordinance requiring extra clearance for demo (to prevent tear-downs). Always check if there are any demo restrictions in your area.
• Grading and Hillside Construction: If your project involves grading (cutting or filling earth) beyond certain minimal amounts, you’ll need a grading permit and possibly a soils/geology report reviewed by the Department of Building and Safety’s Grading Division. In hillside R1 areas, adding a new driveway or foundations often triggers this. If moving more than 50 cubic yards of earth, expect some extra steps (and if more than 1,000 cubic yards in a Hillside, you’ll likely need a discretionary haul route approval by the City due to truck traffic concerns).
• Utility Connections and Permits: Outside of LADBS, you might need separate approvals from other agencies for a new home: e.g., Los Angeles Department of Water & Power (LADWP) will handle new water meter or electrical service requests. The Bureau of Sanitation might require a sewer connection permit or assessment if a new connection is made. These are typically handled during the permitting/construction process.
• Neighbor Considerations: R1 projects must also comply with the City’s neighborhood notification rules in some cases. By-right construction (with no discretionary requests) doesn’t require neighbor approval. However, if you need a special variance or adjustment, neighbors will be notified and have an opportunity to comment or appeal. Also, regardless of permits, general rules like the noise ordinance (limiting construction hours to 7am-9pm on weekdays, 8am-6pm on Saturdays, no construction on Sundays/holidays in single-family zones) must be followed .
• Summary of Steps for a New House (By-Right): To illustrate, if you bought an empty R1 lot and want to build a house, you would: verify zoning and any overlays (Step 1), hire an architect/engineer to draw up plans meeting R1 limits, possibly do soils testing if hillside (Step 2), submit plans for plan check at LADBS (Step 3) – the plans will be routed to Planning (zoning sign-off), Building (structural), Grading (if applicable), Electrical, Mechanical, Fire, etc. – make any corrections needed and get approval stamps from all (Step 4), then pull the building permit and begin construction (Step 5), calling for inspections at required milestones, and finally get a Certificate of Occupancy when done (Step 6). Each of these steps has sub-details, but the city provides guides and you can consult LADBS’s “Homeowner’s Guide: Step-by-Step” for navigating this process  .
• Permits for Additions/Remodels: If you are remodeling or adding onto an existing home in an R1 zone, the process is similar. The key difference is determining if your project triggers any zoning issues: e.g., if you add floor area, does it stay under the 0.45 FAR cap? Are you keeping the required parking or will you need to add another space (for example, some older small homes had only one parking space – adding square footage or bedrooms might force bringing it up to two spaces)? Are you maintaining required setbacks (second-story additions still have to respect the 5’ side yards, etc.)? Many older homes in LA are legal non-conforming to setbacks or parking (built under older codes); you can generally maintain those, but if you expand the building footprint or volume, you usually must comply in the new portion. If something minor doesn’t comply, you might seek an Adjustment as mentioned. Otherwise, it’s plan check and permits as usual. One helpful resource is the Zoning Information and Map Access System (ZIMAS) which can generate a Parcel Profile Report – this report will list the zoning, any special conditions, and even known requirements like how many parking spaces are required for that site, if it’s in a flood zone, etc.  . It’s wise to check that before designing your project.

In conclusion, LAR1 zoning for Los Angeles is the standard single-family home zoning, allowing one home per lot (with new state allowances for ADUs and lot splits), and it sets out the rules for how big and where that home can be on the property. Always use official city resources or consult with City Planning/Building departments when planning a project, as they can provide the most up-to-date information and guidance on interpreting these regulations. By adhering to the permitted uses and development standards – and securing the proper permits – homeowners can successfully design or remodel a residence that fits within the LAR1 guidelines .

Sources:

• Los Angeles Municipal Code (LAMC) – Sec. 12.08 “R1” One-Family Zone (use regulations and development standards)  
• LAMC Sec. 12.21 (General provisions, including parking requirements and height limits)  
• Los Angeles Dept. of City Planning “Zoning Code Summary” (March 2024)  
• Los Angeles Dept. of Building & Safety information (ADU Handbook, Homeowner’s Guide, etc.)  
• State of California Government Code (SB 9 – Two-Unit Developments and Urban Lot Splits) and Los Angeles LADBS SB9 Memo  .