The “Best Settings” and How to Use The Leica M9 for Street Photography

After traveling and having done many workshops on street photography, I have met many Leica M9/rangefinder users who have had difficulty configuring their camera for shooting on the streets. There are lots of misconceptions out there, which make things confusing for people. Therefore here is some advice I have for Leica m9 users (or Fuji x100 or rangefinder users) when shooting street photography. (Note that for the original video, the audio gets cut out at 16 minutes, so I edited the video down). 

Check out the video below, and I have things written in more detail below!

1. Crank up the iso

Most Leica m9 owners (and other photographers) are scared to raise their iso. They ask, “isn’t high iso really grainy?”

My statement is that I think in street photography, grain is beautiful in black and white and should be embraced.

My suggestion is to keep your iso at around 800-1600 during the day and one it starts getting dark, crank it up to iso 2500. The reason I say this is because in street photography, you need a fast shutter speed. Things happen quickly, and people move quickly as well. If you want a sharp image, you will need a high iso and shutter speed. Rule of thumb, I try to keep my shutter speed at least 250ths of a second to avoid blurry subjects.

2. Zone focus

Leicas are engineered to zone focus when shooting street photography on the streets. You will see there is a very clear focusing scale on the lens barrel (if you have Leica glass) and a depth-of-field scale.

I recommend shooting at f/8-f/16 to get a nice depth of field (to get as much in your scene as in focus). Prefocus your lens dead center (1.2 meters) or keep it at 3 meters if you prefer to shoot far away.

More information about zone focusing here.

3. Use a 35mm or 28mm lens

Sure Henri cartier-Bresson shot with a 50mm lens but I don’t recommend the focal length. Why? A friend recently made a point that interested me. Henri cartier-Bresson was shooting in the mid 20th century, where streets weren’t as narrow or crowded as nowadays. Therefore a 50mm would have probably served him pretty well. However nowadays if you live in the city, things are always jam packed. I would state that the 35mm is equivalent today to the 50mm hcb used in his time.

A 35mm is a great focal length for street photography is because it is somewhat wide (to allow you to capture more in the scene, but not too wide). It also mimics the focal length your eye naturally sees (the scene in front of you as well to the periphery).

Also shooting anything closer than a 35mm means that you have far less depth of field when shooting street photography. It make zone focusing far more difficult. I also highly recommend against people shooting street photography wide-open, as you waste precious time to capture the decisive moment. Your camera should be set up to simply make it a point and shoot.

A 28mm lens is even greater for zone focusing, because you get a much deeper depth of field. A 28mm is a great focal length, but note you have to get far closer to your subject (if shooting single people). However it makes a better multi-subject lens. Anything wider than a 28mm is not practical for street photography with a Leica, as the parallax error in using an external finder makes shooting subjects close very difficult.

4. Turn off your LCD screen

Not only will turning off your LCD screen save you precious battery life (I can shoot an entire day on a battery) but it will prevent you from chimping when shooting street photography. As previously discussed, chimping is a horrible habit to have in street photography, as you can miss the decisive moment when out shooting in the streets.

5. Shoot with black and white preview

Brett (a Leica akademie instructor in London) taught me a cool trick when I met him in Paris for the Leica magnum event. Turn your image file to dng + jpg basic and set your color to black and white, and high contrast.

When you are sitting in a cafe or eating lunch after a bit of shooting, you can review what your shots look like (in black and white if you prefer it).

6. Learn your focusing distances

Generally in street photography there are two distances you will take photos of people. Either 1.2 meters (roughly two arm lengths apart) or 3 meters away (around half a room away).

Focus by feel. If your left finger is on the focusing tab, having it dead center will be 1.2 meters. Having it rotated 45 degrees to the right will be roughly 3 meters. Assuming you are zone focusing, you should nail your focus almost every single time.

7. Shoot compressed

You will never blow up a street photograph to ridiculous proportions. Keep your files compressed and save room on your hard drive or memory card.

Note that although this how-to guide is more Leica specific, you can also use it for other cameras as well (especially when it comes to zone focusing and setting your iso high!)

Leica M9 or rangefinder users- what other advice would you give? Share them in the comments below! 

71 thoughts on “The “Best Settings” and How to Use The Leica M9 for Street Photography”

  1. Pingback: Real Photography Advice » Blog Archive » The “Best Settings” and How to Use The Leica M9 for Street …

  2. Disraeli Demon

    These tips will work for any digital camera with manual controls.

    Shooting on a Panasonic GF-1 (micro 4/3) you can get away with f4-5.6 for reasonable depth-of-field with the 20mm pancake lens (the smaller sensor gives greater depth of field). Equally, the wider aperture gives you faster shutter speeds, so you can drop the ISO to around 400 in reasonable daylight and still get fast shutter speeds. Depth focussing isn’t easy because of the way Panasonic’s “focus by wire” manual focus is implemented, though.

    1. One trick with the GF1 (might also work on other m43s cameras) that will help with manual focus. If you set it to MF focus, then set the aperture and turn the camera off then back on the focal distance will automatically be set for the aperture you chose. You can change the aperture after that, just don’t tough the focus ring. The shorter focal lengths of the 4/3s lenses really help getting a large dof so you can shoot with lower ISOs.

      On a different note, I have to wonder about anyone buying a M9 that doesn’t already know about zone focusing…

      1. “On a different note, I have to wonder about anyone buying a M9 that doesn’t already know about zone focusing…”

        Yes, that was my first thought….

        1. re:”On a different note, I have to wonder about anyone buying a M9 that doesn’t already know about zone focusing…”

          But Eric has said it, so one must assume no one else was smart enough to know about it.
          Eric knows all….

        2. Probably wrote it with the thought that he has many blog readers with various levels of knowledge and even though they don’t shoot with a Leica, they will read this entry and may want to apply it to their camera. Also, you can’t assume what someone does or doesn’t know, so being overly inclusive may not be a bad thing.

      2. Charles, could you clarify your instructions? I’ve been trying them with my GF-1 and all that happens when I switch off and on in MF mode is the lens re-sets itself to infinity.

        I tried:
        1) Set GF-1 to MF
        2) Set aperture (in Aperture priority mode)
        3) switch off and on

        In each case the camera just seems to reset focus to infinity. If there’s any way to get it to do hyperfocal distancing (or remember a manual focus distance) that would make my day!

      3. Charles – I’ve been trying your tip and I can’t get it to work (both on my GF1 and G2). have I understood right that it’s:

        1) Set camera to MF
        2) Set aperture
        3) Switch camera off and on

        Focus appears to reset to the same near-infinity position (as far as the crude distance gauge can show) at all apertures from f16 to f2. GF1 is on firmware 1.2 which appears to be the most recent legit version.

        My best workaround so far is to allocate AF/AE Lock button to AF lock only, then use it to quickly focus on an object at the required distance. This allows me to quickly re-focus if the camera powers down, and also disables the focussing ring* to help prevent accidental changes.**

        *assuming “MF Assist” function is not enabled.
        ** but I still have to be careful not to jog the AF/AE Lock button.

  3. I would have thought that when shooting in decent light then ISO200 would be OK if you follow the “sunny 16” rule of having the ISO as the reciprocal of the shutter speed.
    I guess grain might be OK when converting to B&W but not so nice when shooting colour.

  4. -“keep your iso at around 800-1600”-
    A direct quote from Jay Maisel. Quit stealing from others Eric.

    -“Sure Henri Cartier-Bresson shot with a 50mm lens but I don’t recommend the focal length”-
    Nice to see you’re more knowledgeable and experienced than Cartier-Bresson.

    -“chimping is a horrible habit to have in street photography”-
    This one is still too laughable.

    -“set your color to black and white, and high contrast”-
    A more stupid thing to recommend would be hard to find. Who did you steal this one from?

    -“You will never blow up a street photograph to ridiculous proportions.”-
    How arrogant can you be to say how large anyone might want to print? Anyone stupid enough to follow your advice will never be able to get a good large print because of your “expert advice”.

    You have literally “months” of experience as a street photographer Eric, “months”. Many of those you preach to should be teaching you how to shoot, and the level of “experience you’re teaching is embarrassing.

    1. It seems to me you have some empathy issues. The man gives advice accordingly to his opinions and doesn’t play the “master-who-knows-it-all” role. If this advice don’t suit you, give your own proposals in a nicer manner.

      1. Well maybe comments were a little harsh but Eric started this blog as an amateur of street photography and than he quickly became a teacher who does workshops around the world teaching how to do street photos, and that changes everything.
        As a professional, experience, knowledge and talent are crucial and his advices are more than questionable when not actually wrong.
        I mean, good for him he could make a living out of that but he does have responsibilities about what he says because people who follow him think he’s experienced enough to know better but this is not always the case.
        There’s many out there who teach photography but they have an actual CV, years of experience on the field and a book of works that speaks for itself. I don’t think this is Eric’s case who built his teaching thing just on passion and some internet community hype.
        So I guess mr. poo and some others have a point and Eric should seriously think about that.

        1. Exactly. And thank you for understanding.
          He’s a beginner and a beginner who should be learning, not telling others how to shoot.

          His ego is much to big for his experience.
          There’s a long list of very experienced street photographers with decades more “experience” who teach in a respectful manor, not preaching to the fan boys.

          1. Name left out intentionally.

            I have shot street for years. I get paid for my architectural photography. I work full time in a gallery.

            I recently hung out with Eric, and learned more in 4 hours than I have learnt in the last four years (no, I wasn’t paying him). He’s a humble, nice guy willing to discuss, help, and learn. Ask anybody who has taken one of his workshops (I haven’t, but met many who had) they were all glowing in their praise for what they learnt, and how Eric conducted himself.

            I’m no fan boy, I’m a grown man. Fortunately, I’m old enough, and wise enough, to know when somebody is worth listening to.

            Eric is, poo aint.

    2. “poo” wrote:

      -“Sure Henri Cartier-Bresson shot with a 50mm lens but I don’t recommend the focal length”-
      Nice to see you’re more knowledgeable and experienced than Cartier-Bresson.

      If you were to continue reading, he states why he feels this way. You may or may not agree with his reasoning, but he’s definitely not trying to imply he’s more knowledgeable than HCB. At least he’s got the balls to think for himself and not do things because “that’s how HCB did it”.

      Also, just because Eric’s internet popularity began few months ago doesn’t mean he’s been a street photographer for only a few months. With reasoning like that, you’d think that there were no auctions before eBay came around. Dope.

      1. Eric steals from pretty much every street photographer he can find. Blatant stealing from Gilden is just embarrassing for Gilden, and he worships Cartier-Bresson.
        He says “Generally in street photography there are two distances you will take photos of people. Either 1.2 meters (roughly two arm lengths apart) or 3 meters away (around half a room away).”, that’s pure Gilden he’s stealing from, not to mention he expects every street photographer to be shooting exactly as he says to….
        AFA his experience, do some reading, he’s green, totally green.

        1. As TS Elliot says : Good Artists Borrow, Great Artists Steal.

          If you were an artist yourself, you would understand.

    3. Jeffrey Rovner

      Eric’s suggestion wasn’t to shoot in black and white with high contrast. It was to shoot all images in BOTH raw (DNG) and jpg, and to set the jpg attributes to black and white with high contrast. That’s actually a great idea, for two reasons: (1) you can quickly preview the picture in the viewfinder to see how whether the tonal qualities of the image are suitable for black and white, and (2) it’s easy to see if you’ve blown any important highlights (something you don’t want to do on the M9 if you can avoid it). So even if you never use the resulting jpgs (I always discard them and work only from the DNGs), using the jpgs as in-camera exposure and visualization preview aids is very useful. Thorsten Overgaard taught me this technique.

      1. Thanks for the comment Jeff! I learned the technique from Brett (a Leica Akademie instructor in London) to shoot with the DNG + jpeg, and found it be very helpful. Great to see Thorsten using it as well :)

        1. Ive been a newspaper photog for 18 years and we were taught to do this when digital cameras were first introduced. For the 1996 Olympics I think. It’s a great idea and proved its worth many times. Plus, try entering any major awards and not being able to produce a raw format file. And sorry Eric, but many of my street pics end up enlarged, framed and on display. Never say never :)

    4. why are you such a prick? nobody is forcing anybody to shoot exactly like eric this is just what he prefers and what he suggests to others. why are you even here if you’re in such disagreement?

      reading this post alone i could tell you are just a troll. as you have said, eric has only been at this for a short period of time but is internationally known and is able to do what he loves for a living… thats pretty good in my opinion. if a singer was signed to a label after a couple months instead of a singer who was at it for many years does that make the less experienced one bad?

      i dont agree with everything he says either.. nobody should or else everyones work would look the same. since when was voicing opinion and giving advice such a crime? last time i checked, he also never claimed to come up with anything he says.. a lot of advice i give is stuff i’ve gotten from others too.

      it’s easy to talk big behind a monitor. where’s your portfolio? where’s your body of work? i notice that your link leads to a dead twitter page. it’s easy to play the role of the coward with a big mouth.

    5. -“set your color to black and white, and high contrast”-
      A more stupid thing to recommend would be hard to find. Who did you steal this one from?

      ©Leica Akademie

    6. Learning to see in B&W takes some work. Setting your camera to save B&W jpeg and a RAW with all of the color informarion you need to make adjustments PS or Silver Effects is actually a good idea.

  5. BTW, re: “A 35mm is a great focal length for street photography is because it is somewhat wide (to allow you to capture more in the scene, but not too wide). It also mimics the focal length your eye naturally sees (the scene in front of you as well to the periphery)”…

    A 50mm actually represents the equivalent focal length of the human eye, not a 35mm. Easily checked before you post.

    1. If we’re gonna get anal about this: 43mm would be the the equivalent to the fov of the human eye. Anyway, it doesn’t matter does it? It’s all about what you prefer and feel comfortable with. I use both 35mm and 50mm and feel they both have their place.

      Oh.. and btw. Juts because HCB used a 50mm doesn’t make it the Gospel. There’s more than one way to do this and there is nothing wrong in questioning this belief in the magic 50.

      Apart from this, the idea that a 35mm is more suitable today due to changes in our cities is questionable.

      1. If you’re going to preach, at least get your facts correct, a 50mm is (universally) considered the equivalent focal length of human vision.

        1. It is often considered as the “equivalent focal length of human vision” by approximation. The 50mm became known as the standard lens, that does not mean it represents the field of view of the eye. The focal length of the eye is supposed to be approx 22mm, but then the medium is not 35mm film.

          43.27mm (sorry for being sloppy with my facts in the previous post) is what is considered to have a fov similar to the human eye on 35mm film. This is a normal lens as the focal length equals the diagonal of 35mm film.

          Anyway… my point was that what you feel comfortable with and that you feel is close to what you see is what matters. 35mm or 50mm, they’re both in the area of neutral.

      2. Apparently, you’re in agreement with me… “Apart from this, the idea that a 35mm is more suitable today due to changes in our cities is questionable.”
        You agree with my point, a 50mm is “correct” given the context you wrote in.
        You’re also stating “Use a 35mm or 28mm lens”, as better than a 50mm for street shooting, to your “followers”.

        1. I wasn’t questioning the use of 35mm, I was questioning the idea that changes in our cities has made the 35mm a preferred lens. Use whichever you like.

  6. Eric, you did it again ! ;)
    Please stop with that ISO800-1600 tip on the M9 because it makes no sense. Buying over $10’000 of Leica equipment to shoot at F16 and ISO1600 is a sacrilege. To do so, a M4/3rd or X100 would be enough and you’d get the same capability as the M9 in terms of usage (zone focusing). You’d get B&W and grain too. The M9 (and M8) shine at base ISO and Leica lenses reach their peak performance mainly between F2.8 to F8. This is why you spend the money for !
    I think overall you are mixing a bit too much your personal preferences (grain, black and white, depth of field) with real tips on how to use the M9. Only a minority of street photographers use Auto-ISO, some aperture priority but a large majority is on all manual.

    Cheers, Yanidel

    1. Thanks for the comment! And yes, these are all my personal opinions – I have found these settings make it easy to make your M9 into a glorified “point-and-shoot”.

      And yes, I am naturally attuned to gritty images. Very much like your clean images as well! BTW hope the travels are going well- loving seeing images from your blog. You are an inspiration to us all!

  7. Eric,
    I would make sure to point out that those tips are great as a initial suggestion for when they are starting out with street photography using a Leica M system. But they shouldn’t be considered the must have settings. Yes they make things easy. and yes they more or less turn your M9 into a point and shoot camera (I still don’t know why you don’t get a point and shoot/DSLR then). But I think they will also make your photos look like most people’s photos because everyone shoots with that set of settings. Sure the scene of the photo will be different but the basic look and feel will be the same.

    I find the argument about less narrow streets and more people on the streets in HCB’s days pretty bogus. He was shooting most of his work in France and street size has changed very little there in the last couple of decades. One reason so many Euros drive small cars … easier to get around. And yes there were less people living in cities but people were less likely to have cars so more likely to walk and be on the street. just look at pictures of Times Square back in the 50’s sure a bit less people on the street but by far not a deserted space. so that the 35 is the new 50, absolutely don’t buy that. HCB just had a different way to shoot street, a different eye.

    lastly why not shoot wide open. you will miss some shots, some moments, but you will also focus more find more things in a scene rather than just quickly hold up your camera and be gone. you will find something that interests you then focus on it. and the outcome will be a different. for example, i shot this one not completely wide open but at 3.4 with very low iso (160) and i have to say that i would have hated it if i had this on f8 or f16.

    so yes, those settings are good to get started and not get frustrated but after a couple of shots, start playing around

    1. The issue with Eric’s “pronouncements” is that he says very plainly “turn off your LCD screen”, so, if anyone were actually foolish enough to listen to him, you’d return home after what seems like a good days shooting only to discover that your shots didn’t work.
      Great advice there, screw up your shots because Eric says “Turn off your LCD screen”.
      This is exactly why I try to get people to read his “experienced recommendations” for what they are, amateur advice peddled as valid, professional experience.
      He’s a beginner who bought a Leica to “look” like a “street photographer”. If you follow his logic, if you’re not using a Leica, you’re not serious.

      1. Do you say street photographers who use film with no chimping opportunity over digital where you can chimp after every shot ‘foolish’? LCD is a convenience. When we have it there is no harm in using it. There is no harm in shutting it off as well. Shutting it off will make you more confident faster as you don’t have a safety net.

  8. Actually the human eye has an angle of vision that’s about the angle a lense with 43mm would have. So everyone in that 35mm vs. 50mm discussion and what suits the vision of a human is right (or wrong – like you want).
    Your tips are good, but nothing new. One thing that always sounds terrible to me: “zone focusing is what you have to do in street photography”. – C’mon, why using these beautiful Leica lenses, if you not using them the way they are made for: wide open?! I don’t get the point here. Practice and get the skills to focus faster. I know, it’s hard to believe for somebody coming from sunny L.A., but is the rest of the you will often see not enough light to stop down or use zone focusing. But anyway… keep your blog going, take it more serious.

  9. I don’t agree with #7 – you never know what size print you may need in the future (some one may want a giant print to hang in the Leica store!) and with storage so cheap why not shoot uncompressed/low compression and buy more memory cards? I think the price point for memory is at the stage where we don’t need to worry about “saving space”.

      1. Jeffrey Rovner

        I actually think Eric’s referring to the compressed DNG format on the M9. If so, even Leica says there’s no measurable loss in using the compressed format, regardless of print size. Assuming that’s true (and it seems to be, in my experience), there’s no benefit in using the extra disk space, increasing Lightroom loading time, etc.

  10. If your going to shoot at f11 or f16 all the time, might as well put a holga lens on your M9, anything looks plenty good, why spend 3k on a lens…….
    Zone focus at 5.6, then you will actually be using the lens.

    As for the always shoot at iso 800-1600, I really dont get that..
    I guess if you always want to keep the lens at f16, but it bring me back to my first point..

  11. Barrie Marshall

    Great video for new users to a rangefinder camera, I understand all you say as my first Leica was a new M3 with a collapsible f2 Summicron, I use zone focusing and also judging focusing distance, if you can become adept at judging distances it works very well, I imagine the length of a six foot body and use that as my measuring method for most of my street/indoor candid photography with my M9.


  12. Street Photography.

    One of the true “free” forms of photography anyone can participate in.

    There are no “rules”, none.

    Go out with a camera and shoot whatever you find interesting, wherever you find it.
    Shoot in your face, shoot with a tele-photo, no rules.

    To read Eric’s blog, or watch his video’s, he clearly fails to understand what street photography is.
    He is constantly applying “rules”, i.e. from this posting:

    -Crank up the iso
    -Zone focus
    -Use a 35mm or 28mm lens
    -Turn off your LCD screen
    -Shoot with black and white preview
    -Learn your focusing distances
    -Shoot compressed

    Rules, ever one of them.
    This is not “advice”, these are direct “how-to” instructions.

    Find the true “experienced” street photographers, the ones with decades of experience and you’ll read, “there are no rules”, and “find what works for you”. They do not “tell” anyone, they look at what people shoot, and help them do their own personal vision, they do not say anything is wrong.

    Turn off your LCD screen as “chimping is a horrible habit to have in street photography”? Please…

    Shoot compressed because “[you] will never blow up a street photograph to ridiculous proportions” and “keep your files compressed and save room on your hard drive or memory card”.
    Apparently Eric has decided that no one should print anything larger than an 8×10 and no one can afford an extra memory card or battery to go with their Leica…

    Arrogance. pure and simple.

    Sorry Eric, you are giving amateur advice under the guise of a true professional.
    You give “workshops” and “critiques”, yet you have no experience to draw from, no CV. I feel sorry for people you have critiqued, and hope they don’t take your “opinion” for anything other than what it is, amateur.

    Stop trying to pass yourself off as something you aren’t, experienced.

    It shows.

    Write as someone learning to shoot street photos, which is what you are, not as someone to be respected due to your vast [in]experience.

  13. “Best settings” will be different from people to people and depending on situations as well.
    No rules at all.
    As you have been experimenting many different styles and gears so far,
    other newbies like me can try different gears and styles, too.
    People will eventually figure out what kind of settings would work for them as long as they keep shotting.
    So Eric, you “suggest” which settings worked for you. That’s good guidance.
    But let’s leave a bit of room here so that people may explore their own style for street photography!

    For example, when I use 50mm lens in the street, I was able to get reasonable focus just by rotating focus knob through practice as HCB did everyday. Some people may prefer 50mm lens instead of wide angle lenses.

    My point is that people will have different point of view and interests and they will find out their own settings in the end. And I am sure that it will be different to each photographer.

    I guess you understand and would agree to this point as well.

    So let’s keep shooting and have fun!
    Cheers! :P

  14. To save disk space it would be best to shoot uncompressed DNG and then use lossless compression on the DNG once the pictures are exported. The M9 does not offer lossless compression (at least not yet), but by using lossless compression on the files on your computer they will be approx the same size as the lossy compression of the M9.

  15. Some great tips but I would never shoot compressed. When I was supplying images to James Villas they specifically requested uncompressed RAW files. You never know when you’re going to get THE shot, and c’mon Eric, “You will never blow up a street photograph to ridiculous proportions” – The Leica store in Malaysia had yours at a pretty decent size!

    I just believe its easier to and cheaper to buy more harddrives than try to rescue a compressed image down the line when I need it big(ger)

  16. wow. there is a best setting on a 7k camera!? the next revision sure will have an EK button. where do I sign up for the workshop?

  17. I want to thank you for your tip on setting B&W, DNG&Jpg. This is a big help. I use an M8.2. I hate it. It is so F*cked up! I use 2 M6s and a Canon 300HS.

  18. Hey Eric,
    I’ve read some of the comments below from some miserable, unhelpful people who have nothing better to do than put other people down. I think your enthusiasm is refreshing.


    Good evening.
    How on earth do I get prints from a memory card I shot on DNG?
    Have been to numerous camera shops sat in front of the machine, but NO!!! they only print JPG?
    Thanks Ron

  20. Pingback: Why I Chose What I Use Pt. 2 - Lens Focal Length | Street PhotographyStreet Photography

  21. Why would you buy a Leica M9 to adjust the image settings in a way that make the image quality less.. Just use a lesser camera and save yourself alot of money. You are basically telling people to buy a Ferarri and drive 40 everywhere they go. Why have it if you do not use it to its full potential???

  22. Henri Cartier-Bresson used other lenses. Many people believe HCB only use 50mm, but it’s not true. He used 50mm lens for 90% of his pictures, but he also used 35mm and 90mm.

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  26. Hi Eric, I was hoping you could give some thoughts on the M8? I want to get into digital leicas, do you have any thoughts on it? thanks

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